Updating a popcorn ceiling
Apply in generously in one stroke, because going back over the top coat reduces the crackle effect.The medium will cause the top coat of paint to shrink, allowing the bottom coat to be seen.In our last kitchen, the wires came through the ceiling at one end of the fluorescent light, which could’ve meant problems here (moving the box to be centered).But after snapping out the metal cover (that ran between the two bulbs) we could see that we were in luck this time around.Part of that was the fact that the home had sat empty for over a year.The ceilings were also textured with swirls of plaster (not popcorn) and I think that made the ceilings feel lower than they were.It already had a full staircase leading up to it, and it was big. We let that inspire us, but we knew we needed a brighter space.
But our kitchen had a few constraints which meant I needed to use different materials and a different approach. I was installing on top of our plaster ceiling so didn’t want to add a lot more weight to the already heavy lath and plaster.First, I snapped off the plastic cover and twisted out the two tube bulbs.You can see these two steps were actually done before we painted the walls because we wanted to be sure that the fixture box was centered.So let’s kick things off with our favorite new view: Each light installation had its own little peculiarities, so I’ll dive into those before detailing the work that went into the ceiling.When it came to replacing the big fluorescent light, many of you asked for a step-by-step rundown (so you can tackle one of these beasts at home) and the good news is that it was actually pretty simple.